Potted History of the Exe Estuary

River Exe Heritage Leaflet

HERE'S the link to a colourful and comprehensive leaflet from LICCO - Living with a Changing Coast. The LICCO cross-channel project, on climate change, ran from April 2011 to September 2014

Because the leaflet is meant to be printed, some of the text and images are upside-down. Here's the text the right way up.

www.exe-estuary.org A Guide to Heritage on the Exe Estuary

Climate for Change? Eight centuries of favourable climate came to an end in about 1300 AD, with a series of wet seasons, floods and poor harvests, highlighted by an excavated corn drying oven in a medieval farmstead at Exwell Barton.

This general pattern lasted until 1850, although there were occasional spells of better weather. For example, the summer of 1832 was particularly long, hot and very dry. Sadly, this year was also notable for a significant outbreak of cholera in the county, arising in Exeter (via Plymouth) and transported via polluted water supplies. Devon was second only to London in terms of death rates, impacted by its maritime links, where infected sailors would come ashore and inadvertently spread the disease to the general population.

Land Reclamation Storms The storms freshest in our mind are probably those that hit the UK in January and February 2014, breaching many of our sea defences, and causing several homes and businesses in the Estuary to flood. However, the shape of the estuary has long been influenced by stormy weather at sea. Many low-lying areas around the estuary used to be coastal marsh before they were drained for farming, including land in the Lower Clyst Valley.

A significant area of land was also reclaimed from the sea around Powderham in the 12th and 13th centuries; prior to this, tides would have run inland to the rising ground on which Powderham Castle now stands. The red sandstone cliffs through which the main road is now cut were part of the coastline. During the 18th and 19th centuries, land reclamation was almost a continuous process, especially between the River Kenn and Exminster, where up to 500 hectares could have been involved.

It was during this time that land was reclaimed to build railways along the embankments of both sides of the estuary, providing important economic and social links. Best records suggest that the reclamation of marshland to form Imperial Recreation Ground in Exmouth happened sometime between 1933-1951.

The Exeter-Exmouth railway opened on 1 May 1861, with ten thousand people travelling in the first five days. The line was originally single track, but by the First World War it was necessary to construct a double line track because of the number of commuters. As traffic declined, the track became single again in 1973. The railway embankment now acts as a sea wall, cutting off the tide from lowlying areas where saltmarsh used to be, which were traditionally used for sheep grazing.

The first station building in Exmouth was converted from two houses, and was used until 1897 when a purpose-built terminal replaced it. In 1926 a new and attractive terminal building similar in design to London Waterloo was constructed with a handsome clock. In its heyday, 225,000 tickets were issued per year and 400,000 collected, in addition to around 1000 season tickets. In 1978 British Rail made the decision to demolish the fine station terminal building, later replacing it with the structure we see today.

In 1817 a violent storm washed five acres of the Warren away, sadly killing many rabbits. In 1824, another storm caused the sea to completely breach the land at Dawlish, and to inundate the lower part of Exmouth, in addition to flooding and damaging several houses in Starcross. 14 years later, around a quarter of Dawlish Warren was washed away by a storm, and several sea defences were breached again in Exminster, Exmouth, Dawlish Warren and Starcross following a great storm in 1838.

In 1869, severe gales and high tides once again devastated the coast, and around 300 yards of rail track were washed away east of Dawlish (in comparison, around a third of this length was impacted by the February 2014 storms). The Warren was seriously breached, and sand filled the oyster beds and choked the breeding stock. It was estimated that 28,000 oysters were destroyed. In the 20th century, the period between 1937-1946 proved devastating for Dawlish Warren in particular. From 1937-1939, a series of storms and high tides removed most of the bungalows that were sited on the Warren, and the storms that occurred between 1944-1946 washed away the end of the Warren; flattening the end of the spit and detaching it from the main body, so that its previous shape existed only at low tide.

Further stormy weather in the 1960s, 1970s, 1980s and 1990s both exacerbated the existing damage and caused further damage to the Warren. Following the turn of the century, a severe south easterly storm in 2004 had a significant impact on Exmouth. The town’s hard sea defences experienced a lot of damage, which eventually caused the failure and subsequent subsidence of a section of the town’s sea wall. The beach was also lowered as a result of this storm, lowering its effectiveness as a coastal defence.

In 2012, another combination of high spring tides and stormy seas washed away several metres of sand from the central part of the spit, exposing the gabions that hold the dunes in place. Exmouth 1928 - Showing changes at The Point, Exmouth, and no Imperial Recreation Ground. Note also houses clearly visible on the end of Dawlish Warren (source English Heritage)

In 1903 a branch line from Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton was constructed enabling connection to Sidmouth Junction to pick up the Waterloo Line to London. As part of the Beeching rationalisation of the railways, this branch line was closed in May 1967 and all facilities at Exmouth Station closed apart from the booking office and hall.

Meanwhile on the west side of the Estuary, the Brunel-engineered South Devon Railway was originally created between Exeter and Teignmouth in 1846, which involved land reclamation at Powderham Marshes and Starcross. The route eventually linked to Plymouth in 1849 and briefly operated as an atmospheric railway – where trains are propelled by air pressure – between 1847 and 1848.

Taken over by the Great Western Railway in 1876, this much-loved section of the south Devon route provides important economic and social linkages with the rest of Devon, Cornwall, and beyond. Unfortunately, the four mile section of track between Dawlish Warren and Teignmouth has always been vulnerable to the impacts of bad weather, and has experienced regular landslides, breaches and seawater incursions, most notably in 1852,1855, 1859, 1929, and – of course – 2014.

Dawlish Warren bungalows Dawlish Warren Coastal Protection Scheme -1972
Dead calm-sunset on the Bight of Exmouth 1855,
Francis Danby ARA Dawlish high tide Dartmoor Trust and Archive
Dawlish rail line breach etching 1855 Dartmoor Trust and Archive Railways

The Great Devon Mystery The winter of 1855 was hard, with deep snow and enough frost to freeze the Exe. Curiously, on the night of 8 February, strange cloven hoof tracks were left continuously for over 100 miles through the towns of Woodbury, Lympstone, Topsham and across the river as far as Totnes. The tracks were unusual, going over walls and roofs, through hedgerows and haystacks, and down paths. Although many theories as to what animal (or animals) caused the tracks have been put forward over the years, this remains a Great Devon Mystery.

 Exmouth Town Council Dawlish Town Council The Living with a Changing Coast (LiCCo) Project: a partnership project helping coastal communities to better understand, prepare for and adapt to the impacts of climate change, sea level rise and erosion.
Find out more at www.licco.eu.

Issue 1 – February 2015 Exe Estuary Visitor Code Be safe:
Be aware of the dangers from rising tides, soft mud, cliff edges and strong currents.
Prevent litter: Bin litter or take it home with you.
Observe estuary bylaws & warning signs: Check signage and don’t block access points.
Avoid disturbing wildlife: Keep dogs under control and watch wildlife from a distance, especially birds gathering at high water.

Exe Estuary Management Partnership Protecting our Estuary for Future Generations Exe Estuary Officer Email: exeestua@devon.gov.uk |
Tel: 01392 382236 www.exe-estuary.org
Lucombe House, County Hall, Topsham Road, Exeter EX2 4QD
No part of this leaflet is to be reproduced without the approval of the Exe Estuary Management Partnership

Cover Image: Exmouth from the Beacon Walls ,1850, William Henry Hallett © Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery
South West Coast Path National Trail (Poole - 116 miles)
South West Coast Path National Trail (Minehead - 512 miles)
Cyclists please dismount Powderham Marshes
 RSPB Nature Reserve Matford Marshes
 RSPB Nature Reserve est W South th Pa Coast l ai Tr National oole - 116 miles)
(P th Pa est Coast W South l ai Tr National (Minehead - 512 miles) e vices se y ser rr fe r Fo e’ l around the Ex ve ra ‘T l on outer pane 3 4 5 6 7 9 8
Cyclists please dismount

Kenton Local livelihoods included milling, salt making, salmon fishing, nurturing mussels and raking cockles and oysters. Kenton has a maritime history, dating back to before the River Kenn silted up, with six Kenton vessels included in a 1572 list of English merchant ships. Kenton church is one of the finest examples of the Late Perpendicular style in the West of England. Its carved and painted mediaeval rood screen is especially noteworthy.

Starcross Starcross was built largely by the Victorians, retaining much Victorian heritage in its buildings. In the 17th and 18th centuries Starcross became important for anchorage and trans-shipping when larger ships were unable to reach Topsham or Exeter. By the pier is the last of the Italianate campaniles that disguised the large chimneys of the engine houses of Brunel’s Atmospheric Railway, constructed in 1845.

Exmouth In the early 18th-19th century, Exmouth attracted wealthy people who enjoyed the sea views and bathing areas, including Lady Nelson and Lady Byron. Exmouth served as an important port for over 700 years, from the early 12th century onwards, with the construction of a formal dock in the mid-1860s. However, economic decline and the closure of Exmouth station’s branch lines to the docks in the mid- 20th century led to their closure in 1989.

Lympstone A well-known port by the 14th century and rose to prominence for shipbuilding in the 18th century. Heavily involved in whale fishing in the Arctic, the subsidy was withdrawn in 1787 (probably to the relief of local residents, since blubber was boiled in cauldrons on the boatyard) and the town became known as ‘a notorious haven of smugglers’. Many cottages near the river had nooks to hide smuggled goods and adapted roof spaces enabling the passing of goods between houses.

Exeter Canal In 1284, Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of Devon, made two weirs across the river upstream of Topsham to drive a new mill, leaving a 30’ gap to allow shipping to pass. When Hugh de Courtenay, Earl of Devon, inherited Isabella’s titles and possessions, he stopped the gap,

Exminster Exminster dates back to early Saxon times, more recently being favoured by the rich merchants of Exeter who built fine homes here. The ‘County Lunatic Asylum’ was built here in 1846, its function now converted to residential use. Powderham Originally thought to have been ‘Polderham’, which meant ‘village of the marsh’.

Powderham Castle, originally a fortified manor house, was built during 1390-1420 by Sir Philip Courtenay and is now surrounded by a deer park of 2,000 acres. St Clement's Church is Grade II* listed, with the dolphin-shaped weather vane on the tower a remarkable medieval example. The house and church came under siege during the English Civil War in 1645-46 during the Parliamentarian campaign to recapture Exeter.

Heritage of the Exe Estuary Countess Wear Soon after 1688 a sugar refinery and glass factory were built at Countess Wear, the sugar being imported from the West Indies. Messrs Harris and Son made high quality paper in one of the earliest paper mills in Devon, operating before 1704 and closing in 1887. There were several lime kilns, the last of which ceased burning in 1914. Shipbuilding was carried out at Countess Wear, with 13 vessels being built between 1792 and 1812.

Topsham Dutch-influenced architecture came via the strong wool trade links with Holland. There was a windmill grinding corn for export, salt works and limekilns. Manufacturing industries peaked in the late 17th century, whilst Topsham’s reputation for shipbuilding peaked in the 19th century, when Robert Davy built 27 ‘small’ warships for the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic wars. The principal port for Exeter in the 14th century, its subsequent decline partly due to the construction of railways and modern iron ships being too large for the shallow river Exe. The industrial revolution in the north devastated Topsham’s commercial importance.

Exton The emergence of Exton in 1242 was probably linked to development of a water mill, which led to the construction of a road to take corn from the Great Field to Exton by 1321, later known as Rydon Lane. In 1868, the two water mills at Rydon and Exton were experiencing serious difficulties in dry weather. Rydon Mill stopped production in 1909, and Exton Mill stopped in the early 1920s. forcing all Exeter-bound ships to unload at Topsham, adding to his wealth. This continued for over 200 years until 1538, when Henry Courtenay was executed and his lands forfeited to the crown for alleged conspiracy against Henry VIII. Efforts to re-open the weir failed and it was decided that a canal by-passing the weirs provided the only solution. Built by John Trew during 1564- 1566, this was the first canal in England to use the pound-lock.

Cycle route (on road) suitable for walking, cycling, wheelchairs and pushchairs

Cycle route (off road) suitable for walking, cycling, wheelchairs and pushchairs

Footpath (off road) only recommended for walkers

Footpath (on road) only recommended for walkers

Railway/Station Nature reserve Key Bus stop Parking Tourist Information

Cockwood Cockwood originated as a fishing village in the 13th century. There were once salt works and lime kilns here, while a pier and railway sidings were constructed in 1868 (now dismantled). The only record of the pier’s trade dates back to 1874 when the ‘Victoria’ discharged coal for Exeter, Teignbridge and Newton Abbot.

A Cockle Woman 1906 © The Francis Frith Collection. 1947
Starcross Atmos Rail

Dawlish and Dawlish Warren Dawlish became a fashionable resort in Regency times, with visitors including Jane Austen and Charles Dickens (who used it as the birthplace of Nicholas Nickleby). The sea wall was built in 1836 to hold back erosion, and the railway line later fulfilled the same function. In 1855 there was a major cliff fall that carried a section of the railway track into the sea, with similar incidents in 1869 and 1872. In 1885 the cliff was cut back and the promenade created after a fatal accident.

Shipping off Exmouth 1806, Thomas Luny-Crown © Government Art Collection Town Quay 1949 before Carlsberg building 1587 Exeter Lympstone Cottages Exmouth - The Esplanade 1906 © The Francis Frith Collection. The Red Rock Arch 1955 © The Francis Frith Collection. Historical Castle - ©Powderham Castle